Category Archives: History

Out of My Library

If you don’t like the feeling of book dust on your hands, the sight of new gaps between the volumes on your shelves, the surprise discovery of tomes you missed even though you never knew you missed them – read no further.

I am in the grips of a book-shedding catharsis. I realized today – and this is the way it often happens for me – that I couldn’t let another hour go by without winnowing out my book shelves. I insisted that Gil sort his office, too. (He couldn’t find any to give up, but he tried.) The resulting 100 or so cast-off titles went into an extra-large packing box.

gil w book box

Off to the library.

croton mat

A mother stood trying to corral her preschooler near the sidewalk. “Donations?” she said cheerfully. “Efficient way to bring them.”

“Is he a neighbor?” said her son.

“Maybe,” said the mom.

Local book sales bring together browsers with only a desultory interest, avid bargain hunters and steely-eyed professionals. Pop selections are only a minor part of the culture.

hunger games

When we lived in Hastings-on-Hudson, resellers from all over bought Friends of the Library memberships so that they could go to the earlybird presale and scoop up multiple cartons of the most valuable items. That was okay, we managed to find plenty of gems on our own time – including some we had ourselves donated. Yes, it’s true: we turned in books for the sale that we later decided were simply too fascinating to pass by.

radiating like a stone

But it’s such a relief to weed out the honeys of yesteryear: The Man Who Quit Money by Mark Sundeen, Jonathan Franzen’s Freedom, Dava Sobel’s Longitude, The Judgment of Paris by Ross King. All good reads, eye opening, brain teasing. None of them necessary to my life at the moment.

The Croton Free Library has just celebrated its 75th anniversary. I hope that its patrons will enjoy my books as avidly as I did.

croton library anniversary cup

There are people with acres of shelves in their home library. Their libraries. Their nooks and end tables. Their bedside stacks. When we downsized to the Cabin, that life ended for us. We knew we’d have to focus a laser beam on what meant something to us. We carted out dozens of boxes for various libraries, dozens to sell at the Strand, and ended up leaving many freebies at the curb. Even if you mourn the loss of your books, it is worth it for the experience of a transaction at the historic institution of the Strand, which has been in business since 1927 on 12th Street and Broadway in Manhattan.

strand-history-thumb

The  buyer peers down his spectacles and thumbs through your precious collection, calculating all in his head the value of each book before announcing the usually paltry total. Sometimes it is a triumph, enough for dinner in a decent restaurant. Those novels that you thought were brilliant, invaluable, they’re basically worthless at the Strand, while the store covets and compensates well for the scholarly and academic works you thought no one would ever want.

Now the smooth, dust-free spines of the books line up straight on my wooden shelves in the proper order – all of them books I have selected anew, that I want and need.

double shelves

Some of them seem to have a special kinship even outside their genre. Not exactly subject. More, spirit.

green books

Many, like these, have a story besides the narrative in the book – the story of my relationship with it. My mother-in-law gave me Stalking the Wild Asparagus when I was a newlywed with a house in an apple orchard and a nascent interest in gardening. Ian Frazier’s Great Plains has been a touchstone over the years in thinking about writing nonfiction. Wilderness and the American Mind dates from my college days and still holds my intense interest. Everyone who loves books has these intimacies with individual volumes, the how and why of how your relationship with it came about. Your foundation with it. These begin to make up the essence of a library, the authors that really meant something then and now.

The true reason to get rid of books? Honestly? To collect more books.

current

I needed space for a working library, all the ones I’m drawing on for my next novel. Any clue as to what the book’s about?

6 Comments

Filed under Culture, Fiction, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Photography, Publishing, Writers, Writing

The Halfway House Restaurant

Once again Peter Zimmerman delivers a bulletin from the road. Thanks, Pete, we live vicariously through your travels.

YESTERDAY (writes Peter) I stumbled on a great, old-timey eatery, the Halfway House Restaurant, located on Route 22A, about halfway between Bridport and Shoreham, Vermont, give or take a few yards.

Halfway exterior

It opened in 1951, has somehow survived intact, and serves up a mean hamburger, with homemade fries. The buns were handmade too.

burger

The special of the day was poutine, the common Canadian dish, originally from Quebec, made with french fries, topped with brown gravy and cheese curds.

Halfway menu

The turtle cheesecake, with chocolate, caramel, and pecans, is to die for.

pie

The walls are plastered with photos from days gone by, including this one of Amable and Salome Quesnel and their offspring.

Family pic

Since they were married in 1879, they never made it to the diner, but some of their 102 grandchildren, 275 great-grandchildren, and 156 great-great-grandchildren probably did.

Halfway interior

p.s. Anyone lost a glove?

glove

1 Comment

Filed under Cooking, Culture, History, Photography

Kitchawan Dragonflies

Are dragonflies magic? My favorite insect, I think.

green

Humans have always had a fascination with them. We were creating amulets of the insects back in 1640 B.C. Egypt.

dragonfly amulet, egypt, 1640 bc, faience

They’re prehistoric. Ravishing to look at. Voracious hunters. Fascinating to artists, like Wenceslas Hollar, the great 17th century lithographer.

Wenceslas Hollar, 1646

A cloud of hundreds of dragonflies swelled over our heads at the outdoor yoga class offered at Kitchawan Farm in the early dusk. The farm, in Ossining, was a place I’d always wanted to visit. It was September 11, and the class was free to whomever wanted to drop in, a way to mark the day.

Kathleen Clarke led the group. She usually was an instructor at Dragonfly Wellness nearby. Perhaps she brought the bugs?

Kathleen

I brought my boot and a desire to stretch my tight, tired muscles, sick of sitting with my foot up for six whole weeks. We laid out our mats, the dragonflies zooming and booming above.

I didn’t know if the people there would be nice about my infirmity. Maybe they’d be yoga-fascists, insisting on fast, sweaty gyrations, on keeping up a certain pace. But as soon as we set up, a woman hurried over to offer me a plastic chair in case I needed it. It turned out to be Linsay Cochran, who manages this century-old family farm. So gracious, and so welcoming.

There was a meditation to begin, and Kathleen suggested we think not so much of September 11, but perhaps more important, September 12. What did we do in the wake of the tragedy? I thought about the 11th, watching the flames all the way down the Hudson, scoping from Hastings to New York City from the lawn next to the library, the dawning dread that this was real. But September 12th – what did I do, actually? I think the day was about our shared shock, but also about the difficulty of explaining what had happened, to myself but also to my nine-year-old daughter.

shrine

At Kitchawan, in the dusk, we stretched our arms to the graying sky, held our hands in prayer position, again stretched our arms to the sky.

My Frankenstein boot presented no problem. Kindness, I felt, made my awkwardness a nonissue.

Kitchawan Farm has 20 acres, and specializes in flowers as well as vegetables and herbs. The blooms of later summer were all around.

pink flower

“There shall be eternal summer in the grateful heart,” wrote Celia Thaxter, a popular gardener/writer of 1890s New England who is now, like so many women writers of that time, largely forgotten. If you are in need of eternal summer, give Linsay some advance notice and she will a bouquet for you.

fuschia flower

Gil and I had wandered the rows when we first arrived. Decided on chard for dinner.

chard

They’re mainly a CSA operation here at Kitchawan, and some people were coming to pick up their shares. Others picked up their wild, sweet children from the little summer camp there.

patty pans

Late-season bounty crowded the tables.

carrots in tub

We bought garlic from a  young woman in the “stuga” (Swedish for cottage), two of a half dozen varieties. A garlic house, how charming.

siberian red

Wished we could get closer to the horses – the farm boards 10 but they were all off behind fences in their horse dreamworlds, munching grass.

Gil had gone to walk in the woods of Kitchawan Preserve while I levitated under the dragonflies.

Linsay, laying out on her mat, was constantly attended by her large, gentle dog Pogo.

When the sun salutation came, I knew my foot was spent, so I moved my stretched-out body over to an Adirondack chair and watched the dragonflies recede.

grey sky farm

I inhaled the scents of manure and herbs. Listened to the horses snort, the excited hens and rooster and guinea hens vocalize. I heard Kathleen taking the little group through the final meditation, murmuring a narrative that was all about compassion, gratitude, virtue, healing others. There was so much good feeling here at Kitchawan, they could sell it in bouquets by the roadside. Or, I guess, give it away.

Being able to heal others. I don’t know about anyone else there, but I felt a little healed. My foot was tired, but my soul weariness had been transported away by dragonflies.

shibata zeshin

 

5 Comments

Filed under Art, Culture, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Photography, Writers

Mementos in a Vermont Boneyard

Peter Zimmerman continues his ramble through New England, shooting some images our way as he goes.

TODAY I LUCKED OUT (writes Pete).  Not only did I have the Old First Church of Bennington, built in 1762,  all to myself, but then I had the audience of its pastor, the Rev. Kenneth A. Clarke, as well.

I had been poking around the old boneyard adjacent to the cemetery before trying the door to the church and finding it open but “No One home.”

Inside I found a vase of simple goldenrod.

goldenrod

The flag of Vermont and Old Glory were standing on either side of the pulpit.

vt flag

One thing was conspicuously absent: any kind of Cross or statue of Christ.

whatsmissing?

I couldn’t resist climbing up the stairs to the top of the pulpit.

pulpit

A large Bible was turned to Psalm 91.

psalm 91

The tools of the trade. Reverend Clarke told me  that other people climb up there, too, and sometimes leave the volume open on a different page.

lectern The windows are clear glass rather than stained for a simple reason. Back in the days before electricity, they let more light in.

window

I found a very old foot-warmer in one of the box pews (as opposed to regular old slip pews).

footwarm

pew

Here is pew number 9, number 9, number 9….

number 9

I asked Reverend Clarke about some of the headstones I had seen in the graveyard. Many of them were decorated with “ascending angels,” which came into vogue after the skull-and-crossbone style, and were followed by the weeping willow.

angelheads

One of the ascending angels bore a distinct resemblance to Groucho Marx. Rev. Clarke laughed and said he hadn’t noticed that.

groucho

Robert Frost is the most famous inhabitant. He and his wife Elinor share a footstone with two children.

There are lots of Revolutionary War-era soldiers and patriots, but not Ethan Allen or Seth Warner.

rev plaque

Five of Vermont’s Governors can be found here, the female’s first female settler, Bridget Harwood, and some fellow who drowned on the Titanic who used to work as a herdsman on the Colgate family estate (I got the last one from the Reverend). The first person buried in the cemetery died in 1762, when George Washington was a mere 30 years old. I wanted to know whether a person could STILL be buried here. Yes and no, says Clarke. Your family has to already have a plot. And spots are tight, he said with a wink.

willow

2 Comments

Filed under Art, Culture, History, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Photography, Writers

Art for Art’s Sake

When was the last time you thought about Art Garfunkel? His angelic tenor, his sensitive beak, his fallouts/reunions with Paul Simon, his blond ‘fro?

simon:garfunkel

Probably, like me, not recently.

Which is why I jumped at the chance to see him solo in a tiny venue in the middle of New Jersey, in a performance that was being billed as an “open rehearsal” – for what, somewhat unclear. Anyway it would just be Art and a guitar up on the stage, with a group of several hundred devotees.

Three hundred fifty, to be exact, because that was the seating capacity of a hall called the Tabernacle in a magical, historical community called Mount Tabor that originated as a Methodist summer camp meeting ground in the late nineteenth century.

event_146798492.jpeg

People live there now, in houses, not tents. Our friends Eric and Mary Ann have been Mount Tabor-ites for decades.

eric and maryann's home

Walking to the Tabernacle for the show has an element of the mystical, along the small, civilized paths.

magical tabor

When the place originated, tent properties (leased from the Camp Meeting Association of the Newark Conference of the United Methodist Church, never bought outright) stretched back from the central building and its green, with the more prominent families closest to the preaching. People came here for a month in the summer to get their evangelical fix much the way they did at Ocean Grove, Tabor’s Methodist sister town on the Jersey shore. It all depended on whether you wanted the mountains or the sea, both were equally soul-restoring. The movement faded at the turn of the twentieth century, with houses  eventually built to replace tents, and 212 of the ornate gingerbread-decorated originals remain. National landmark status for the district is imminent. Quiet streets wind throughout this other-timely locale.

tabor homes

Eric and Mary Ann, who raised three kids here, have a property of “six to eight tent plots.” They are “the landed gentry,” Mary Ann wisecracks. She tells me that unlike other towns, here you actually tell your kids to go out and play in the street – because yards are postage stamps if they exist at all. It used to be canvas abutting canvas. “You sneeze in your house,” Mary Ann tells me, “and they say bless you in the next house.”

Mary Ann 2

There’s history here, multiple generations living on in one house. A descendent of the original farmer-landowner named Dickerson still runs the supermarket down the hill. Mary Ann orchestrates a longstanding local holiday (like, a hundred-forty years long) called Children’s Day. “You could be a benevolent dictator,” suggests Gil. “There are certain people you must dictate to,” says Mary Ann archly.

We wait in line for Art Garfunkel. Hydrangeas glow in the dusk.

hyrangeas

Time expands. The line stretches, people who have journeyed to this little enclave to see a great singer.

There are perks of being a Mount Tabor resident, and since Mary Ann and Eric know George, the organizer of the event, we go back to the green room half an hour before the performance. It’s located in an adjacent historic building that is usually bare, filled only with folding chairs, where various committees hold their meetings.

bethel

“This is why they come,” says George, referring to the other big-name acts that have appeared in small-town Mount Tabor, Hot Tuna, Arlo Guthrie and Donovan among them. The green room features low, romantic lights and rich burgundy tableclothes and a line-up of chafing dishes in this quaint building that transports you to another time. They had to peel Donovan out of here to get him to the airport after a post-show Buddy Holly singalong.

“Art is sleeping on the ground floor beneath us,” George tells us. I think about that.

art garf

Ssshh. Outside, we inhale the late summer air, cool and warm breezes intermixed, the scent of late roses from people’s tiny garden plots.

roses

We’re standing next to what everyone likes to call the 1873 condo, a building of connected homes where three tent sites originally stood. Slate and gingerbread! Some of that detail might enhance the Cabin.

condo

The Tabernacle, built in 1885, is a wooden octagon topped by a cupola. It has no heat, just hardbacked benches with plenty of leg room.

tabernacle

The interior paint is original. No joke.

inside tab

Giant poles hold the roof up.

tab inside

It’s time. George, at the mike, gives fair warning: Art detests gadgets. Phones and cameras throw him off his game. Turn everything off. Everything. Now. A big change for those of us accustomed to concerts with everybody waving their units around in the air, with everything instantly You Tubed. What kind of curmudgeon makes these rules?

And Art does turn out to be a bit curmudgeonly,  approaching the front of the stage to lecture someone rude enough to attempt a picture. He looks the curmudgeon too, his nose sharpened by time, his height perhaps decreased, his pate and his frizz, a plain checked shirt and jeans, a man in his later years.

art-garfunkel

He begs our forbearance. He has been struggling with his “damaged voice” for three years, he says. (He cancelled a tour last year, I heard.) He just now feels he can bring it out in front of a crowd, but he is self conscious. Between songs, he thanks listeners graciously for their support. He reads to us from writings on the backs of white envelopes, poems, he says, he wants to test out on us, from a collection will be published next year by Knopf.

He recites a poem he originally read for Paul Simon on his 70th birthday:

For 70 years his arm has been around my shoulder,

He’s dazzled me with gifts.

I nurtured him in his youth.

He brought me into prominence.

I taught him to sing.

He connected my voice to the world.

I made him tall.

All of our personal belongings are intertwined.

We say it’s exhausting to compete,

But we shine for each other.

It’s still our favourite game.

tall art:simon

He tells us a story of living on Amsterdam Avenue when he was in architecture school at Columbia, living among roaches. Simon came over saying he thought he had a song that might be worth something and it was Sounds of Silence. Garfunkel sings Sounds of Silence for us. Haunting.

He shares an anecdote about Jack Nicholson’s acting chops when they did time together in Hollywood on Carnal Knowledge.

Jack-Nicholson-Candice-Bergen-and-Art-Garfunkel

A story about the “bird in his throat,” and singing Ol’ Man River for a herd of cows as he hiked in the country one day.

As for the singing… the angelic tenor… well, the instrument is indeed broke, in part. Still ravishing, sometimes. It is an amazing performance, though, just because it is so raw, because his voice is imperfect, because of the notes he can not hit and the notes he snags, better in the lower registers. Bookends, a capella. Cathy’s Song. The Boxer. Parsley, Sage, eliding over the rosemary, but bringing the song home, ultimately.

There in Mount Tabor’s intimate, historic Tabernacle, all is forgiven.

tab night

6 Comments

Filed under Culture, Film, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Music, Nature, Photography, Poetry, Publishing

Beautiful Typologies

Though I still don’t quite understand what a typology is, the form fascinates me nonetheless. Diana Zlatonovski makes typologies fascinating. This, for example, is a collection of sunsets she amassed on Flickr, drawn from the work of Penelope Umbrico.

sunsets on Flickr:Penelope Umbrico

A curator of interesting objects and images, Zlatonovski compiles them into organized entities for our admiration/edification. She is a photographer. She photographs objects herself. And she distills other work into the essence of their parts (giving proper credit, of course, where credit is due, like these pools of Franck Bohbot).

swimming pools:photos by Franck Bohbot

Her own photos tend to the more delicate. This image she calls “Bundles,” comprised of seashells from a  museum collection, wrapped up like bon bons.

Bundles

I asked Diana, who works at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, when she started working with groups of objects. “I started my typology project about a year and a half ago,” she told me. “The first series I photographed was the Wrenches.”

WrenchHer work seems to derive its inspiration from that of a famous pair of typologists, Bernhard and Hilla Becher, German artists who worked as a collaborative duo until early in this century.

Bechers

They photographed mainly  industrial buildings and structures.

bernd-hilla-becher-water-towers

Diana told me she has been working a lot with collections at the Harvard Museum of Natural History. She also does some photography in her own studio and travels to collectors’ homes.  “The up side of  doing that is that I am able to spend more time with the collector and hearing the stories behind the objects and how they brought them together.”

Why are arrangements of like objects so arresting? We are invited, perhaps, to entertain the idea of their seeming permanence… these matchbooks will go on forever in whatever permutation.

vintage Boston matchbook covers from the Boston Public Library

Except when they don’t. My parents had a typology of sorts — mid-50s Tokyo matchbooks enshrined under the glass top of a dining table, and those graphics are now far, far in the tail lights. You can’t even get a matchbook in a restaurant anymore. Yet the power of once-ubiquitous objects that have been replaced by other things is also fascinating.

Duncan Yo-Yos:Smithsonian Collection

I like Diana’s work so much because the collections she documents, unlike others, are made up of seemingly not valuable items. Collections too insignificant to interest real collectors. What is worthy of keeping, of arranging, of caring about? We take pennies in a jar for granted, for example. What if they were arranged mindfully and given pride of place in a well-lit photo? This is my typology, not Diana’s.

pennies

Does the artist have collections of her own?

“It’s hard not to!  I am always finding interesting things. Luckily, I am usually most interested in small objects…much easier to store.” I love her typology of forks.

vintage forks

Which objects do you find the most fascinating or beautiful, I asked.

“It really varies,” she said. “There is always an emotional response that brings me to selecting objects, it can be aesthetic, nostalgic, or any number of things. But I definitely am drawn to the form and color of an object as well as to its story, where it came from, what it represents.”

I don’t know about you, but I’d like to know everything about these vintage, wacky, glamorous cigarette-holders.

Cigarette-HoldersYou can find Diana’s original photographs on her web site.

Her blog, The Typologist consists mostly of artist submissions or images she has compiled from digital collections.

2 Comments

Filed under Art, Cooking, Culture, Fashion, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Photography

From Mormon Cupcakes to McCook

My brother, writer/photographer/perambulator Peter Zimmerman, has been a peach about furnishing posts for me while I’ve been laid up with an adventure-prohibiting bum foot. Here he is again, sharing an album of views he’s enjoyed recently.

AFTER BEING MIRED for eight long years in the New Age mecca of Sedona, Arizona (writes Pete) I hit the road about 13 months ago and now (for the time being) live somewhere in Maine.

“The sharpest pleasure of a traveler,” G.K. Chesterton once wrote, “is in finding the things that are at once so strange and so obvious that they must have been noticed, yet somehow they have not been noted.”

These are some of the some places I’ve seen along the way….

Mormon cupcakes in St. Joseph, Arizona.

ARIZONA

Canola fields in Colorado’s San Luis Valley.

COLORADO

The Pottawatomie reservation north of Topeka, Kansas.

KANSAS

Mt. Kineo, Maine.

MAINE

Steele City, Nebraska.

NEBRASKA

Big Al’s Rib Shak, New Hampshire (Al and Mary).

NEW HAMPSHIRE

McCook Army Air Base (abandoned), Oklahoma.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

Road to the Bisti Wilderness, New Mexico.

NEW MEXICO

The Leaning Forest, New York.

NEW YORK

Stockholm, Texas.

TEXAS

El Despoblado, near Eggnog, Utah.

UTAH

3 Comments

Filed under Culture, History, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Photography, Writers

The Big Melt

The ice had all melted. I had come to the group show at MOMA P.S.1 in Long Island City, “Expo1,” to see the contribution of Olafur Eliasson, the Danish-Icelandic artist responsible for the amazing waterfalls he installed five years ago around the island of Manhattan.

waterfall1

This time he’d put a little bit of Arctic ice in a climate-controlled room at the former public school/art showplace. It was the closest to the Arctic I thought I’d get in the near future, so I made sure to hit the show on its final weekend.

oeps16-537x402

I would have gone in the GIRLS entrance at P.S.1, the former First Ward Primary School of Queens, except it was only for staff.

ps 1 girls

I’ve always liked those gender-differentiated doors in schools. My own middle school had them.They bring to mind a lively picture of the dangers of mixed-sex post-recess lines — hair-pulling and other scrapping.

The show we’d come to P.S.1 to see featured environmentally-themed works by contemporary artists in a range of disciplines, from video to wall-sized paintings. “Dark optimism” is how the museum describes the show’s approach to various ecosystems.

xpo 1

We went stoked with barbeque from a joint in the neighborhood, called John Brown Smokehouse (named after the abolitionist), that loaded our plates with piles of Kansas-City-style brisket ends and pinkest pastrami.

meat

We didn’t find our names on the freebie list next to the chalkboard menu.

eats free

Afterwards we picked up a wheelchair at P.S. 1’s coatcheck. I always wondered what it’s like to cruise through an art museum in a chair. One thing I found out: you see the lower end of the frame a lot.

wheatfield

That’s from a series by Agnes Denes, completed in 1982, for which she planted a field of grain in what was then undeveloped landfill and is now hugely built out Battery Park City. Her photographs show unsettling views of the World Trade Towers half hidden by amber waves in the foreground.

I sat at the perfect height to examine the trash receptacles that lined a small square room, by Klara Liden, untitled. It lends a certain poignancy to all of these works to realize that you are making your way from classroom to classroom as you go, where some of those girls from the GIRLS entrance and boys from the BOYS entrance shot spitballs and kicked each other under the desks.

garbage

I like your graffiti, said a young lady in a sundress, eyeing my cast. They appreciate fine art at P.S. 1. As it happens, I got it right across the street at 5Pointz, the graffiti mecca that is destined to be shut down shortly for luxury housing. Ed Koch used to say that the purpose of an artist is to move into a neighborhood and increase the rents by so much that artists can’t afford to live there any more. Or something like that.

The fancy museum cafe served us coffee and exquisite poppyseed-blackberry cake with lemon curd. For nineteen dollars. Now that’s some high-toned art.

poppy

But no ice, any place. The piece called “Your waste of time” was no more. The room, with its shards of ice from Iceland’s largest glacier, Vatnajökull, was not intended for a deep freeze, a guard told me. “It was a real mess,” he said. The ceiling started to fall. In an exhibit about the environment,  global warming writ small. This happened about a month ago.

There were other great things at the museum though.

Steve McQueen’s disturbing, hypnotic film from the vantage point of a helecopter buzzing the Statue of Liberty.

statue

A tiny hole in the floor that revealed a video showing the artist Pipilotti Rist drowning in lava while shouting “I am a worm and you are a flower!”

A tree reminiscient of Billie Holiday’s Strange Fruit from which a dog, cat, rat, frog and a few other strays were strung up, all dipped in sticky black paint. This nightmare by Mark Dion, titled “Killers Killed,” reminded me of the Uncle Remus stories. My artist-friend Gary, who came along to the museum, told me he knew the artist’s wife when she owned a dress store in Soho. Artists lead ordinary lives, no matter how bizarre their creative efforts.

There was the grotto created by Meg Webster originally in 1998 and reinstalled for this exhibit. It has some vicious looking koi swimming around. The artist herself comes in for a dip once in a while.

grotto 2

What I liked perhaps the most was a permanent piece, the gold-leaf covered boiler system in the basement, the work of Saul Melman in 2010. This is a vintage coal boiler out of Freddy Kruger, in a dank stone and brick cellar that reminded me of the basement I grew up with, penetrated by boulders. I could only see gold-gleaming bowels from the upper doorway as I could not descend the stairs, and I wish I saw the artist in action.

central-governor

But the current show was the place to go if you wanted to see a projection of a parrot against Betty Boop wallpaper or a disembodied porcelain hand holding a broken porcelain egg. If you were interested, as I was, in frightening urban scenes of large old trees against barbed wire fences.

But not if you wanted ice. For that you’d have to go to the service exit.

ice machine

3 Comments

Filed under Art, Cooking, Culture, History, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Photography

Digging

I made a list. The things I’d do if I were going out and about this weekend. The free-of-leg-cast things.

There’s the NYC Unicycle Festival, which kicks off with a 13-mile single-wheeled parade across the Brooklyn Bridge to Coney Island and which includes a bout of unicycle sumo wrestling.

UniFest2012 photo creditKeithNelsoniphone_1654

Then, the art installlation by Olaf Eliasson, called “Your Waste of Time,” in Long Island City, at MOMA PS1, with chunks of Icelandic ice in a refrigerated room.

31EXPO-articleLarge

I could visit the Wolf Conservation Center north of the Cabin. Sit behind protective glass and watch a pack howl. They even offer overnights in a tent. The Center has babies, like Zephyr, born April 20th.

zephyr

There’s a tug boat armada on the Hudson, more accurately the Great North River Tugboat Race & Competition, complete with a Popeye-themed contest for spinach eaters.

Jones Beach, its tawny sands burning hot in August, its crashing waves filled with quarter-size quivering jellyfish. We don’t care about jellyfish, though. It’s the last swim before fall. But no room on that crowded strand for a fiberglass leg cast.

ocean

The Breaking Bad exhibit at Museum of the Moving Image in Queens that displays the costumes, props and other accoutrements of everyone’s latest streamed addiction, one that has smoothed the way through these mellow weeks post-foot-surgery. The arc of the show was contrived as carefully as Walt crafts his blue rocks, not surprisingly, and “From Mr. Chips to Scarface: Walter White’s Transformation in Breaking Bad.” will show you how. The stuffed animal that splashes down into the Whites’ swimming pool was specially commissioned, it turns out.

BreBa-Pink-teddy-640x415-300x194

Do you care to see the tighty-whities that Walt wore in season one, episode one? For some reason I do, but I don’t know if the terrain is maneuverable for me and my scooter.

I missed the Battle of Brooklyn last weekend – reenactors assembled in what later becamethe famous Green-Wood Cemetery – out of a dread of uneven grass and pebbly stretches.

green-wood-cemetery-battle-brooklyn-reenactment-redcoats

There was supposed to be cannon fire and I know people were boiling pots over smoky campfires.

I must eschew places that wouldn’t easily accommodate what Gil calls “Jean’s crutches, sons of butches, or the Bloke, no joke.” What the ladies at the nail salon called my “motorcycle.” One was so nice she gave me an upper arm massage. I never knew that crutches kill your triceps.

Jean on crutches

But it’s all in the name of pampering that tiny metatarsal in my right foot, the one that needs some extra help to mend so that I can go on ever greater adventures. Who knows, next year a pair of hiking boots that actually fit. Kilimanjaro.

I am most definitely emerging today for a time to “help” cart Maud’s things for the year to her new dorm. She makes up in leggy activity, just back from sunny Spain, what I currently lack. Out catching drinks with friends, seeing music, buying notebooks, all new things, looking to the future.

maud spain

I am also looking to the future, though a ripple of boredom is creeping through me like a sweet rot. Day to day, I dive down into the Revolutionary New York research for my next novel and come up with gorgeous crumbs. And you need crumbs to make the rich loaf that is a historical novel. But that’s just a start.

I’m going to need a new couch after this recuperation, the indentation in the current one might not plump back up.

A walk down to the garden to dig potatoes would be great. Fingers — toes! — in the dirt. I remember the loam of mid-summer fondly.

potatoes soil copy

Oh, forking over potatoes today… would be amazing. The just-deceased Nobel-winning poet Seamus Heaney’s poem on the subject, “Digging,” is one of the great works of modern literature. Have a seat on my couch. Take a listen.

Between my finger and my thumb   

The squat pen rests; snug as a gun.

 

Under my window, a clean rasping sound   

When the spade sinks into gravelly ground:   

My father, digging. I look down

 

Till his straining rump among the flowerbeds   

Bends low, comes up twenty years away   

Stooping in rhythm through potato drills   

Where he was digging.

 

The coarse boot nestled on the lug, the shaft   

Against the inside knee was levered firmly.

He rooted out tall tops, buried the bright edge deep

To scatter new potatoes that we picked,

Loving their cool hardness in our hands.

 

By God, the old man could handle a spade.   

Just like his old man.

 

My grandfather cut more turf in a day

Than any other man on Toner’s bog.

Once I carried him milk in a bottle

Corked sloppily with paper. He straightened up

To drink it, then fell to right away

Nicking and slicing neatly, heaving sods

Over his shoulder, going down and down

For the good turf. Digging.

 

The cold smell of potato mould, the squelch and slap

Of soggy peat, the curt cuts of an edge

Through living roots awaken in my head.

But I’ve no spade to follow men like them.

 

Between my finger and my thumb

The squat pen rests.

I’ll dig with it.

4 Comments

Filed under Culture, Fashion, Film, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Poetry, Publishing, Writers, Writing

Tomb With a View

It’s really nice, sitting here with my leg up, to know that someone is out there having adventures. In this case it is my brother Peter Zimmerman, who is making his way through New England and closely observing as he goes. Pete, a writer and photographer, has a web site and a book about exploring the various Podunks across our sprawling country. If there is a cluster of old grave markers in a small town, he will find it.

YESTERDAY (writes Pete), while driving south through the Connecticut River valley, I stopped at a gas station in Northumberland, New Hampshire, and struck up a conversation with a psychiatrist who lives just across the river in Guildhall, Vermont. He recommended an old cemetery, the Nellie Smart, about five miles south of Guildhall on Route 102.

There’s nothing like visiting an old boneyard when you need to gather your thoughts and get away from people – living ones, that is.

Nellie Smart signA Mason is buried there.

Mason

The oldest grave is that of Phebe [sic] Whipple, who was born in 1749.

phebewhipple

Some of the black-slate headstones are less than half an inch thick.

Headstone

One side of the Nellie Smart graveyard faces a pasture…

Pasture

 … and the other side, the road.

Road

Over the past two weeks, I reckon that I’ve visited some two dozen cemeteries while rambling around Maine, Quebec, and Vermont. Usually there’s a corresponding church next door…

church:cemeteryA few churches in Quebec…

Agnes

Alfred

Raquett

Usually Jesus shows up in one form or another.

christ:church

And the cross.

cross

Some of the graves are quite poignant.

xxxourbaby

here:lie

I wonder what kind of accident he died from… in 1916? Automobile? Stampeded by moose?

collision

I conclude with a few of my personal favorites. This foggy scene reminded me of the famous Yorick soliloquy…

xxxyorick

Put ’er there, ponder.

xxxput'erthere,podnerAnyone’s guess.

jeanclaude

The short and simple annals of the poor…

xxxwoodencrossTomb with a view in Island Pond, Vermont.

xxxtombwithaview

This memorial south of Jackman, Maine marks the site of a former POW camp.

xxxPOWLots to reflect on.

reflectionsStASo you best get your pins in a row!

xxxpinsinarow

6 Comments

Filed under Culture, History, Photography, Writers, Writing

Blurbs for The Asylum

Blue Rider Press has come out with a book trailer featuring fashion insider Simon Doonan talking about getting blurbs for his his forthcoming book The Asylum.

the asylum

There is actually a series of very brief videos, including the blurb one but also one about designer Thom Browne and one about Michael Kors and one featuring “career advice for young people,” among others. An original approach to promoting a book through a video, well suited to such an original guy.

Simon_Doonan_photo-credit-Albert-Sanchez

The one about blurbs, “those wonderful little comments on the back of the book,” is pretty honest and funny enough, and hits home as I am wading into the waters of asking people to read and comment upon Savage Girl. Publication isn’t until March 2014, but quotes are needed long before that to be printed on the book jacket. And publishing pros say they are critical to getting a book noticed.

Savage Girl cover 3

Doonan says that when he is asking for blurbs “I am in a permanent pretzel of cringing, shame and self loathing.” Then he reels off some of the glowing comments he got from Marc Jacobs, Alexander Wang and others.  “Don’t even think about becoming an author,” he warns, “unless you’re prepared to go through the torture, the torment, the challenges of getting some blurbs.” The Asylum: A collage of couture reminiscences…and hysteria is out Sept. 3.

1 Comment

Filed under Culture, Fashion, Fiction, History, Jean Zimmerman, Publishing, The Orphanmaster, Writers, Writing

My Gîte and a Whole Wheat Bread Recipe

The peripatetic Peter Zimmerman continues to make his way through the north country, from which he sends this illustrated bulletin. Thanks Pete!

MARGUERITE MARGO – no relation to Brigette Bardot – is a baking fool (writes Peter).

marguerite

I met her after exiting the highway to take a breather and stumbling onto her boulangerie (bakery) in the small village of Saint-Gédéon, Quebec, along the river Chauvières, not far from the Maine border.

st gedeon map

In this small area of Quebec, Le Beauce, there are more than a dozen towns named after saint this and saint that, all quite obscure: St-Robert-Bellamin, St-Georges, St-Martin, St-Ludger, St-Honore, St-Sebastien, St-Hilaire-de-Dorset, St-Romain, St-Cecile-de-Whitton, and St-Samuel-Station.

“My town,” St- Gédéon, is 96% Roman Catholic, 3% Atheist (!) and 1% Protestant. St-Gédéon was the 13th bishop of Besancon, France. He served six years and died in 796. His feast day is August 8.

Here is the church of St- Gédéon.

st gedeon church

Louis Hémon wrote the first draft of Maria Chapdelaine while staying in Saint-Gédéon in 1912.

What I didn’t notice at first about the boulangerie is that it’s also a gîte (bed and breakfast).

my gite

I was tired and ended up spending two days and nights there.

Turks cap or bellingham lilies flourished in the front yard of my gîte.

lilies

Every time I came downstairs, Marguerite was bustling around the kitchen, baking something new.

marg bread

Sometimes hidden.

hidden

I bought a liter of blueberries and she is making two little blueberry pies just for moi!

pie baking

The first step is “biling” the berries.

boiling

She laid it in a crust.

pies

Out of the oven.

pie next to plate blueberry pie cut

But where did all those baked goods go?

At the end of my visit, I found out that she sells her goodies at a nearby campground, where everything is snapped up like hotcakes, so to speak.

biscuits

While she was off making her delivery, before I departed, I baked her a loaf of my whole wheat-flax bread. 😉

whole wheat flax bread

Although Marguerite knows very little English and I only know a few French words, we speak the universal language of pain.

Meme si Marguerite connait tres peu la langue Anglaise et moi quelques mots Francais. Nous parlons la langue universelle du pain.

crabapples

Pete’s Whole Wheat-Flax Bread Recipe

take out 2-3 T. yeast from refrigerator and wait 15-30 minutes until room temperature

add 2 T. honey and 1 tsp. salt or to taste, then 2 T. oil, 2 T. flax meal and 1/4 cup wheat bran

mix well (but gently)

add 1/2 unbleached white flour and 1/2 whole wheat (approx. 3-4 cups of each), mix and knead

after you’ve added the flours, you need to keep adding lukewarm water a little at a time until you have the right consistency

then before you let it rise, dust the dough lightly with flour

let rise 30-60 minutes, fold into oiled bread pan

bake at 375 degrees for 30-40 minutes, until golden brown on top

let cool on warm stovetop for 30 minutes

turn onto baking rack.

best toasted and topped with unsalted butter

for lighter bread, add 1 cup wheat bran to step 2

5 Comments

Filed under Cooking, Culture, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Photography, Writers

Locks, Stock and Barrel

Rindfleischetikettierungsüberwachungsaufgabenübertragungsgesetz. Things do change in Germany.

Rindfleischetikettierungsüberwachungsaufgabenübertragungsgesetz, the 63-letter word meaning “law for the delegation of monitoring beef labelling,” is no more, having been dropped from the language, repealed by a regional parliament after the EU lifted a recommendation to carry out BSE tests on healthy cattle.

cow-beauty_1699660c

The longest German word had appeared in official texts but not in dictionaries. (You can hear it properly pronounced here, before you put it aside and never think of it again.)

Anyway, it’s now kaput.

This fragment of ephemera constitutes my most recent knowledge of things German, so I am glad that my parents, Betty and Steve Zimmerman, have kindly  contributed a post as they make their way through the country by river barge. Here is their team effort, with Steve’s prose and Betty’s pictures:

MEMORIES of the lunacy and destruction of Adolf Hitler’s Third Reich exist today (writes Steve) only among Germans in their 70’s and 80’s, and older.  

Among young Germans, especially those in their teens and into their 30’s and 40’s, a dramatic recovery, brought about in large part by the Marshall Plan, NATO and the collapse of the Soviet Union (and the infamous Berlin Wall), has enabled the emergence of a new Germany, clearly the undisputed economic leader of Europe. The change has been nothing short of miraculous.

Today, 50 years after our first trip to post World War II Germany, this new Germany has been shaped in both obvious and subtle ways.

The beautiful countryside of central and southern Bavaria, the largest state of Germany, was clearly the highlight of our 1963 trip…and it looks essentially the same in 2013, a dozen trips to Germany later.

1

On this trip, we are sailing on the Rhine, Main and Danube rivers on the newly-built River Splendor, with 173 other American passengers and a multi-national crew of 44. The journey is made possible by a remarkable canal with 66 locks between the Rhine and the Danube rivers.

2

The project was initially  conceived by Charlemagne in 793 AD but abandoned due to incessant rain.

The expensive project was again attempted by Hitler in the mid-1930’s but was dropped in favor of Hitler’s ambitious plans to conquer all of Europe, and eventually the entire world.

The project was begun again 40 years later and completed in 1992. The current canal system consists of 66 locks on the rivers plus the Main Canal itself.

3

Europe has a Continental Divide similar to that in the United States. Therefore, the first 50 or so locks elevate ships upwards by as much as 81 feet until a total height of 1,332 feet is reached. Just past Nuremberg, the canal locks start to bring ships down closer to sea level.

Here are pictures taken of the lock at Bad Abbach, which brings our ship 18.7 feet down.

4

5

Our ship is 30.40 feet wide and the locks are all 39.40 feet wide, a difference of just two feet. Expert as our Dutch captain is, we still occasionally bump into the side of a lock with a noticeable thump.

6

It is now noon on Saturday, August 24th and we will soon dock in Regensburg for a walking tour of the town. Only 14 more locks to visit later today and tomorrow.

7

2 Comments

Filed under Culture, History, Nature, Photography

Maine Woods Ramblin’

My world-rambling brother Peter has sent a bulletin from the northern Maine forest, where he is catching his breath in the middle of a book project and, as always, exploring the local history. Peter published Podunk: Ramblin’ to America’s Small Places in a Delapidated Delta 88, which remains the definitive portrait of locales far off the beaten track, and a perfect reflection of his restless, questing mind.

Pete

What you can’t get enough of in Podunk are Pete’s vivid photographs, and his pictures of Moosehead Lake in Maine are definitely worth sharing. He’s been spending time around Mount Kineo.

mt kineo cliffs

Mount Kineo’s wild beauty has long been celebrated, but few know it abuts a piece of land called Misery Gore, an “untrampled” place Pete investigated for Podunk. Gores are highly unusual geographical features, Pete’s research shows, limited to Vermont and Maine, “largely forgotten anachronisms that don’t much impact most peoples’ lives in any profound way.”

He says that the source of Misery Gore’s name might be its preponderance of black flies, or it being “a miserable place to survey, log, hunt, and birdwatch,” or that it’s overgrown with briars and brambles, or that “a French-Canadian logger from Miseree once passed through this neck of the woods.” The parcel is wedge-shaped, crisscrossed with nothing but dirt roads.

It is, however, Penobscot country – the tribe has a reservation near Bangor known as Old Town — and on this trip Peter reacquainted himself with some of his Podunk contacts, three generations worth, including 50-year-old Andrew Tomer, his 12- year-old nephew and his father, Penobscot elder Francis.

Francis Tomer

Penobscot, Peter told me, means “where the stream runs by the mossy rock that is white when dry.”

Mount Kineo’s 800-foot cliffs of rhyolite were carved by the Indians into arrowheads. “Thoreau cut himself on this flint-like rock,” Peter writes, “which he called ‘hornstone.’”

arrow heads

“Some Native Americans believed that the cliffs under water were bottomless” Peter told me. He took a ferry to the Tomers’ dock. “After a dinner of well-grilled steak, corn on the cob, green beans from the garden and small spanish olives with pimentos, Francis took out a cigar box with all the arrowheads, marbles, stone tools, etc., and told me about them,” said Peter. Andrew, he reported, was very quiet. “He wanted to remember the stories for future generations.”

clay marbles

“Basket weaving by the Penobscot can be quite intricate,” says Pete.

basket 1

“First, pieces of ash are soaked in water. Then each one must be individually sanded down.”

basket 2

These baskets were made by a woman who lives in Rockwood, Maine, on the shore of Moosehead Lake. There Peter saw mushrooms. Fresh, with a garnish of smooth stones.

mushroom

And fossilized.

fossil mushroom

A sculpture of some kind.

stone sculpture

A piece of the rhyolite from which arrowheads are carved.

piece of rhyolite

Wampum.

wampum

An ancient knife used to carve walking sticks.

old knife used tomake canes

An initialed pipe left by an early settler.

pipe

A deerskin cap.

deerskin copy

A deerskin pouch adorned with a baby snapping turtle shell that Peter plans to bring with him when he leaves.

pouch

A celebration of all that is old and new and precious in these cool, mysterious Maine Woods.

7 Comments

Filed under Art, Cooking, Culture, Fashion, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Nature, Photography, Publishing, Writers, Writing

Crushes on Crutches

At the movies I saw a woman on crutches. A young, pretty woman in a color-block sundress. As I watched, she hopped around the serve-yourself beverage kiosk, assembling her ice, her soda and her straw, putting the whole drink together before her boyfriend politely carried it away for her.

I saw her next swinging her way into the ladies’ room. Into a regular stall! Not the one with the wheelchair icon I was struggling to enter with my kneeling scooter The Bloke. I washed my hands, she washed her hands, the difference being that she was cool as a cuke, graceful and weightless, not perspiring and puffing like me. Probably about 24 years old.

At the film line she was waiting, as was I, to go in. We shared war stories. A motorcyle accident, she said.

anime

A little piece of the bike flew off into her ankle. The doctor had her in her cast for six weeks. It was a little difficult, she told me, because she lives up four floors and the laundry’s in the basement. But she’s making do okay. Her bike? Came out of the accident perfectly fine. She couldn’t wait to get back on it.

By the next morning my conversation with motorcycle girl had begun to percolate. I had been proud of myself for managing The Bloke so well. But now I had crutches envy. How do you make the best of this particular situation, a bum foot, and do it with some measure of equanimity and grace? It helps if you are an athletically gifted person of 24, of course. I wondered, how do you take your lumps and move forward, albeit with a cast on your foot that feels like a stiff leather ice skate with no sock? A little sand drizzled in for good measure.

Recently I asked my brother Peter for blog ideas since I knew I’d be less able than usual to go on gallivants and cover eclectic cultural happenings like I usually do. Why don’t you just catalogue all the stuff in your house, he suggested.

I feel, though, that I have already catalogued some of the things I like best. My vintage cookbook-pamphlet collection, for example.

salad book

The heirloom lace created by my foremothers.

lace cu 2

I don’t know that I’ve ever indexed the bones that have surfaced from the marsh in front of the Cabin, mainly carried helpfully to us in Oliver’s mouth. We joke that he is trying to assemble to assemble a full deer skeleton.

bones

Or the skins that have been sloughed off by so many snakes just to the south of the house.

snakeskin

But, like motorcycle girl, probably I do get to a few things every day, even now, move my constrained life ahead bit by bit. Take some action, even if I’m not swinging effortlessly on my axilla mobility aids. Thus, a catalogue of 10 actions taken today.

1. A shower bath, my leg encased in a plastic bag, with streaming hot water and a worn-down bar of soap a revelation.

2. A knitted row of  angora, hopefully without a slipped stitch.

angora

3. Perused some passages in Travels in North America, a volume published by Swedish naturalist Peter Kalm in the 1760s. In it he expounds on such scientific matters as the way bears kill livestock in Philadelphia: by biting a hole in a cow’s hide and inflating it until it dies.

racoon1

4. Stumbled upon a recipe for Warm, Cheesy Swiss Chard and Roasted Garlic Dip. As soon as I’m up and around the kitchen again!

5. Checked out the Thanksgiving episode of Orange Is the New Black.

o-ORANGE-IS-THE-NEW-BLACK-facebook

How many programs have a cast that is 99 percent female, let along with a heavy lesbian slant? Mindblowing.

6. Pushed The Bloke to the sushi bar at the back of a Japanese restaurant and had the treat of watching the chef halve a bright pink, yard-long salmon with finesse, season it with rock salt and layer it in a tub with its perfect filet brothers.

7. Scootered through a supermarket I usually despise as being too plastic but which today looked cheerily kaleidoscopic after two weeks of grocery deprivation.

market

8. Brought home the beer in The Bloke’s handy basket.

kaliber

9. Visited my garden for the first time since the surgery. The collards were begging for a simmer with a pork hock.

collards

10. Visited with Oliver on his turf, the front yard, for a change, rather than him visiting with me on the couch.

oliver rolling

I’m getting back onto that couch now and elevating my aching foot. Ahhhh. But… I wonder what motorcycle girl is up to. On her anime-sparkle-titanium-neon crutches. Rocking the lead vocals with her hip hop crew? Bottle-feeding a new litter of rottweiler-lab pups? Baking a dozen loaves of vegan meatloaf for her closest friends? Or just getting ready to fly down those four flights and go out to the movies again? Because she can do just about anything she wants. As can I.

3 Comments

Filed under Cooking, Culture, Dogs, Fashion, Film, History, Home, Jean Zimmerman, Knitting, Music, Writers, Writing